Q. I am getting an external flash for some high speed photography and strobe pictures, I use a Nikon D7000, What are some of the best flashes to use for both things?
A. Actually I'm going to offer you a contrary view to MVB. Yes, you can spend £320 or so on an SB900 and get off camera flash control including TTL (auto flash metering) and high speed sync with your D7000 - but the trigger is still an optical (IR) signal, and they can be a bit unreliable, especially if you will be shooting outdoors, or at odd angles (it's line of sight only).
The alternative is to go for a cheaper manual flash - a YN560 will cost about £40 and will have the same spec (in terms of output and zoom head options) as an SB800. It can be used on camera in manual mode (you set the flash power manually (it goes from 1/1 (full) down to 1/128 power). Or you can get a set of radio triggers (I recommend RF602's) for about £20 which will enable you to use it off camera. As the trigger is radio not optical, the range & reliability is greater & it can even trigger through walls!
I have a Nikon D300 and I started off with branded Nikon flashes - but I ended up using them almost exclusively in manual mode. I then bought radio triggers & added to my flash collection with Yongnuo units (YN460-II and the YN560) - my radio triggers work seamlessly with both the Nikon and the Yongnuo units and also trigger my studio strobes. You can save yourself a fortune by using non-branded gear (money that can then be spent on light stands or modifiers).
A good resource for off camera flash is the Strobist blog;
http://strobist.blogspot.com/2006/03/lighting-101.html
This is a swim shoot I did using 2 YN560's with RF602 triggers;
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f2krz58XfUw
Edit: do bear in mind that for high speed photography, it's usually the flash duration that freezes motion, NOT the shutter speed. Unless you use high speed sync, you cannot go above the camera's sync speed with flash (that's usually around 1/200 sec shutter speed). High speed sync will allow higher shutter speeds, but at a great loss of flash power (ie it will need to be very close), as the flash is pulsed across the shutter curtain rather than firing in a single pop.
The alternative is to go for a cheaper manual flash - a YN560 will cost about £40 and will have the same spec (in terms of output and zoom head options) as an SB800. It can be used on camera in manual mode (you set the flash power manually (it goes from 1/1 (full) down to 1/128 power). Or you can get a set of radio triggers (I recommend RF602's) for about £20 which will enable you to use it off camera. As the trigger is radio not optical, the range & reliability is greater & it can even trigger through walls!
I have a Nikon D300 and I started off with branded Nikon flashes - but I ended up using them almost exclusively in manual mode. I then bought radio triggers & added to my flash collection with Yongnuo units (YN460-II and the YN560) - my radio triggers work seamlessly with both the Nikon and the Yongnuo units and also trigger my studio strobes. You can save yourself a fortune by using non-branded gear (money that can then be spent on light stands or modifiers).
A good resource for off camera flash is the Strobist blog;
http://strobist.blogspot.com/2006/03/lighting-101.html
This is a swim shoot I did using 2 YN560's with RF602 triggers;
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f2krz58XfUw
Edit: do bear in mind that for high speed photography, it's usually the flash duration that freezes motion, NOT the shutter speed. Unless you use high speed sync, you cannot go above the camera's sync speed with flash (that's usually around 1/200 sec shutter speed). High speed sync will allow higher shutter speeds, but at a great loss of flash power (ie it will need to be very close), as the flash is pulsed across the shutter curtain rather than firing in a single pop.
Which companies provide the best memory card compatable with a Nikon d7000?
Q. So I am about to buy a Nikon d7000 and would like to know which memory card(s) would work best with the Nikon d7000.
I plan to use the continuous mode often, and maybe some short HD videos, so I understand that I would need probably an SDHC class 6 memory card (minimum) for the above applications. I am just not sure which memory card to get - If it is SanDisk, Panasonic, Lexar, etc.?
If you have any suggestions, or comments, to offer, I would love to hear them. Thanks!
I plan to use the continuous mode often, and maybe some short HD videos, so I understand that I would need probably an SDHC class 6 memory card (minimum) for the above applications. I am just not sure which memory card to get - If it is SanDisk, Panasonic, Lexar, etc.?
If you have any suggestions, or comments, to offer, I would love to hear them. Thanks!
A. sandisk is excellent
get a class 10
get a class 10
What kind of filters are best for nikon d7000?
Q. may i ask for any advice.. Im planning to buy a 50mm 1.8g lens for my nikon d7000 and i also want to purchase a filter.
1. Is 50mm 1.8g better than 1.8d?
2. If i were to buy 3pieces of filter, what would you recommend?
Thank you guys :)
1. Is 50mm 1.8g better than 1.8d?
2. If i were to buy 3pieces of filter, what would you recommend?
Thank you guys :)
A. 1. the 50mm and 35mm lenses have different uses. One lens may be better at a specific type of photography, but there is no "better" overall
I.E, you would be a complete idiot to do portraits with a Zeiss APO sonar 1700mm f/4 lens
likewise, you would be a complete idiot to take action shots of your favorite sports star with a Tokina 11-16mm from the nosebleed section
what it comes down to is what you want to shoot
on your D7000, the 35mm lens will mimic more or less the same view of what you see with your eyes. The 50mm will be slightly telephoto, perfect for portraits and people shots
2. I buy UV filters just to protect the front element of my lens from dust, water, and possible little dings. If you break the UV filter, you just get a new one. If you bust the lens, you need a new lens, which is many times more expensive
I use B&W and Hoya brand filters.
I.E, you would be a complete idiot to do portraits with a Zeiss APO sonar 1700mm f/4 lens
likewise, you would be a complete idiot to take action shots of your favorite sports star with a Tokina 11-16mm from the nosebleed section
what it comes down to is what you want to shoot
on your D7000, the 35mm lens will mimic more or less the same view of what you see with your eyes. The 50mm will be slightly telephoto, perfect for portraits and people shots
2. I buy UV filters just to protect the front element of my lens from dust, water, and possible little dings. If you break the UV filter, you just get a new one. If you bust the lens, you need a new lens, which is many times more expensive
I use B&W and Hoya brand filters.
Powered By Y! Answer
